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INCI Name: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol
Emulsense™ HC is the first and only (at the moment) fully plant based, natural, palm-free and ecocert certified cationic surfactant for hair care applications.
This is delivered as white to beige flakes with a melting point of about 58 degrees celsius. It could be added to the oil phase, to the water phse or be applied in a one-pot process with both oil and water phase together.
Emulsense™ HC imparts conditioning, anti-frizz and anti-static properties to hair care products. It is applied in both leave-on as well as rinse-off products from styling butter to 2in1 shampoos. Like all other cationic surfactants, it is not compatible with anionic surfactants. It means your cleansing conditioners and 2-in-1 shampoos shall be based on amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
Application dosage: 5.0-16.0%
Application: heat with the water phase, with the oil phase or in a one pot process to ca. 70 degree. Blend both phases and cool down under stirring. No homogenization is necessary.
The pH of the final product is usually around 3.5. If you want to increase the pH (in a shampoo or because of your preservative limitations for instance) you need to apply a weak base for this purpose. The suppliers suggests application of arginine . Usually a dosage of 0.2-0.4% is enough to increase the pH to 5.5.
We've tested both NaOH (lye) and baking soda to increase the pH and they don't work here. They build clumps and make the conditioner separate in two phases.
The supplier recommends application of Spectrastat G2-N for preserving this cationic surfactant in water containing formulations (hair conditioner, 2in1 shampoos or cleansing conditioners).
Click here for a tutorial for a conditioning, anti-frizz balm with Emulsense HC.