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INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (>90%), Polyglyceryl-3
Country of origin: Belgium
HLB: ca. 3,5
Neocare P3R is a natural (palm-free and suitable for vegan formulations) emulsifier for W/O (water in oil) emulsions. This is an amazing blend creating light and low viscosity (even sprayable) emulsions with an outstanding stability and a silky skin feel that is very untypical for W/O emulsions.
It is very easy and uncomplicated to work with. You can apply the emulsifier both in cold or hot process depending on your preferences and other ingredients in your emulsion. The emulsifier is a high viscosity liquid. At cold temperatures and in winter, you may have to slightly warm it up to reduce the viscosity and help blending it in the oil phase if you're doing a cold process.
3-5% in the oil phase for 10-40% oil content. Blend oil and water phase separately. For W/O emulsions, the pH of the water phase should be adjusted before blending the two phases. W/O emulsions need an electrolyte for stabilisation. Generally bivalent ions (such as Magnesium) are more effective than mono-valent ions (such as sodium). Add 0.5-1.0% of NaCl,
Magnesium Sulphate or another suitable electrolyte into the water phase.
After both phases are homogeneous, very slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while stirring the oil phase. Try to avoid building of any water pool. After all of the water phase is added to the oil phase, stir for another 30 minutes. This emulsifier does not necessarily need homogenization. Long homogenization may even have adverse effect on the stability.
Voila, enjoy your emulsion.