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INCI: “Cetearyl wheat straw glycosides and cetearyl alcohol”
CAS #: 54549-27-8, 27836-65-3
Xyliance belongs to the classics of natural emulsifiers. It was one of the rare palm-free and natural emulsifiers on the market but it is no more palm-free. It makes smooth and silky yet stable emulsions with a very nice skin feel. Xyliance is more suitable for higher oil concentrations, ca. 25-40% oil phase in the emulsion and its application dosage is around 18-20% of the oil phase.
Although the emulsifier itself has a pale yellowish color, the emulsions created with Xyliance have a luxurious white appearance (unless you apply oils with an intensive inherent colour such as avocado or acai oil).
Xyliance should be applied together with an emulsion stabilizer such as xanthan, acacia, guar, sclerotium gum. You can modify the viscosity of the final product by playing with the gum and xyliance concentration.
How to apply:
Add Xyliance to the oil phase. Heat oil and water phase separately to ca. 70 C (or slightly higher than the melting point of your ingredient with the highest melting point). Slowly and in small aliquots add the water phase to the oil phase while stirring. Homogenize for 1-2 minutes and continue gentle stirring as the emulsion cools down. You can disperse the gum from the very beginning in the water phase or add it after the emulsion has been formed. Add your sensitive ingredients and essential oils or fragrance oil as the emulsion is cooled to ca. 35 degrees C. Add preservative and adjust the pH as necessary.
Read this blog post to find out more about how to use Xylaince in emulsions.