alpha-BisabololINCI Name: BisabololCAS # 515-69-5 / 23089-26-1A soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. Bisabolol is oil soluble and could be applied in aqueous products only with an emulsifier/solubilizer.A suitable agent for shaving and after shave products, after sun, soothing creams, diaper rash products and in Acne-products.Origin: Candeia treeApplied concentration: 0,1-1,0%Add at a temperature <30 C
INCI Name: ALLANTOIN
CAS # 97-59-6 Allantoin is a very mild additive gained from Urea. It has a superior thermal stability over Urea and has moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, skin conditioning and protecting functions.Allantoin is a white powder which is water soluble (0,4% @ 20 degrees Celsius) and is added to the water phase in the formulation. In hot process formulations, add it during cool down and by temperatures below 50 degrees.It could be applied in all Rinse-off and Leave-on products such as shampoo, after shave and shaving products, after sun and sun care, moisturizing creams, lotions etc.You can even easily apply it into your balms and butters, add it as the butter is cooling down and has made a trace, stir continuously as the butter cools till it solidifies. It is an excellent ingredients for chappy foot soles, dry, inflamed and itchy skin.Applied concentration:0,05-0,2% in water containing products. Allantoin is soluble in cold water up to 0,4%, the solubility increases by increasing temperature ( do not heat it more than 50 degree centigrade). Adding glycerine or a glycol such as pentylene glycol improves the solubility as well. Keep the pH between 4-8.0,1-5,0% in waterless formulations such as balms, butters, deodorant sticks, lipstick, mineral powder etc. In powder formulations, blend it with the powder. In balms and butters add it to the formulation at a light trace and blend it during the whole cool down phase.
INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 amideCountry of origin: CanadaHalal certifiedSuitable for vegan formulations% naturalness according to ISO 16128: 99,95%This is a biomimetic peptide blend that reactivates melanin production.Function: prevention of greying hair roots, reversing the grey roots and bringing the natural hair colour back.This is a water soluble product. Much easier and more environmental friendly (as well as skin and scalp friendly) than hair dyes.Application: in rinse-off and leave-on productsDosage: 0,5-1% in preventive products, 1-2% to reverse the grey rootsOptimum pH: 4,0-8,0Add this ingredient at the end of formulation and below 40 CDo not apply with sugars (such as prebiotics this will cause a colour change in the product)Store @ room temperature and protected from light. Shake before applicationThis product is only sold B2B. You need a valid VAT number to be able to order this ingredient
Ascorbyl Palmitate (Ecocert approved), Mass BalanceINCI: Ascorbyl PalmitateCAS # 137-66-6EC # 205-305-4This is a lipophilic and stabilized form of Vitamin C, naturally derived and Ecocert approved. Ascorbyl palmitate is the ester of vitamin C with a much better stability compared to vitamin C. Its antioxidant activities are specially enhanced in combination with tocopherols (vitamin E)Vitamin C has antioxidant properties both in the product and on the extracellular matrix. It can promote cell regeneration and stimulate collagen synthesis and hence have some anti-aging properties.Obtained by esterification of ascorbic acid (fermentation) and palmitic acid (palm oil)Application:Ascorbyl palmitate is lipophilic and should be dispersed in the hot oil phase. It will not completely dissolve in the oil phase and hence would not create completely transparent oils but in emulsions and butters it would easily be dispersed and create a nice and stable texture.Dosage:As an antioxidant in the formulation (specially in combination with tocopherols): 0,1-0,2%As an active ingredient: 0,1-1,0%
INCI: BakuchiolCAS# 10309-37-2This is a natural and safe alternative to retinol (vit A), 100% plant based and suitable for vegan formulations.It imparts the benefits of retinol but without its safety issues and drawbacks. One of its great advantages is its photostability which makes it suitable for day applications.Bakuchiol is a concentrated active ingredient derived from Psoralea corylifolia (babchi seeds) and is different to the whole oil which is also available on the market as bakuchi (or babchi) oil.This is a lipophilic ingredient with a yellow to brown colourBakuchiol improves skin defense against oxidative stress and inflammatory stress, stimulates collagen synthesis and activates anti-aging genes.Application dosage: 0,5-1,0%pH of the finished product should be <6,5Avoid contact with iron and copper (clays) or add a chelating agentAdd during the cool down phaseStore between +15 to +30 C; avoid light and heat.This product is NaTrue conformed
INCI Name: Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCAS #: 84650-60-2Active Component: Caffeine >98.5%CAS #: 58-08-2Preservatives: Preservative freeThis is an Ecocert certified caffeine (>98,5% active) powder derived from green tea leaf extract.Caffeine is an alkaloid belonging to the xanthine chemical group and has long been used in cosmetics for lipolytic activity by increasing the cAMP, activating the lipase responsible for the hydrolysis of triglycerides in the adipocytes.More recently, caffeine has been shown to have an anti-proliferative activity and inhibitory effect on skin tumors after UV exposure in animal models.Caffeine has also been described to boost hair growth and increase hair fiber diameter.It is a white water soluble powder. You can increase the solubility with alcohol (what we do not recommend) or with using plant based glycols such as pentylene glycol(what we recommend).Application dosage: 0,5-3,0%Application possibilities: Hair and scalp products (shampoo, conditioner, masks), skin firming and tightening products, under eye products, suncareAttention: The powder is very sensitive against humidity. Store it in closed and tight containers (if possible over moisture absorbent or in a desiccator.We ship this ingredient with a desiccant sachet filled with natural clay. You can discard the sachet with your household garbage (when it is saturated) and replace it with a new sachet or any other suitable absorbent. Our sachets weight 6 gr and they are saturated when they reach a weight of 7,3 gr).
INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer / Pentylene Glycol /AquaThis is a cross-linked hyaluron with the highest molecular weight and the highest long-lasting moisturizing properties. It acts like a 3D sponge that gradually provides skin's upper surface with moistureEasy to apply, this ready to use, high-viscosity gel does not need and predispersion or hydration. Just add it to the water phase (toner, hydrogel serums etc.) or add during the cool down to the finished emulsionApplication: rinse-off and leave-on products1,0-5,0%Storage: in closed container and protected against humidity, light and oxygen
Vitamin E, natural, plant based and palm-free mixture of D-alpha, D-beta, D-delta und D-gamma Tocopherols in sunflower oill (70%)INCI: Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilCAS #: D-(a)-Tocopherol: 59-02-9 D-(b)-Tocopherol: 16698-35-4 D-(g)-Tocopherol: 54-28-4 D-(d)-Tocopherol: 119-13-1 sunflower oil: 8001-21-6a natural mixture of tocopherols (non GMO) in sunflower oil.Vitamin E is an effective anti-oxidant and is added to raw material to protect natural oils from rancidity . In cosmetic products it both protects the product (lipids) and the skin and hair against oxidation.Application dosage: 0.1-0.5% to prolong the shelf-life of the ingredients, 0.5-3.0% for its skin and hair care benefits.
INCI Name:Vanillyl Butyl Ether CAS No.:82654-98-6 EINECS/ EC No.:444-010-7This is a naturally derived active ingredient with a faint vanilla scent. It is lipophilic and creates heat without burning or sensitizing and is used in lip balms and lip sticks to create the lip plumping effect or in massage products and other body care formulations to create a pleasant heat.Application dosage: 0,1-0,5%
INCI: Triolein, Glyceryl dioleate, Ceramide NP*alternative INCI name for triolein and Glyceryl dioleate: Olive glyceridesThis is an easy to use and predispersed ceramide NP. Ceramides are part of our own skin barrier and have proved in clinical studies to reduce TEWL, enhance skin hydration, reduce wrinkles and inflammation and enhance the barrier function.The commercially available ceramides are either in powder form that need to be heated over a long time around 90 C or an easy to use liquid form dispersed in mineral oil and/or preserved with parabens or phenoxyethanol.This easy to use fluid, non-preserved ceramide NP comes in a carrier derived from olive oil (palm oil free) and you can apply it at temperatures as low as 40 C. No need to cook the ceramide and other precious ingredients in order to incorporate the ceramide.Typical dosage: 0,5-2,0%Suitable for vegan and Halal formulations
INCI: Glycerin - Aqua/Water - Centella asiatica Leaf ExtractThis is a hydrophilic and hydroglyceric extract without preservatives.Centella asiatica (tiger grass, Gotu kola) is a medicinal plant in Africa, Madagascar and southern Asia. It is one of the most effective ingredients when it comes to wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties as well as improving skin tone and radiance.NOC: 100%COSMOS approvedApplication dosage 2-5%
Hyaluron, high molecular weightINCI: SODIUM HYALURONATECAS# 9067-32-7This is the highest molecular weight variation of sodium hyaluronate with the highest viscosity. It has the highest moisture binding and lubricacy among different molecular weight variations. The molecular weight is between 1-1,8 M Da.Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan) is a natural linear polysaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and D-Glucosamine units. It has countless applications in food supplements, pharmacy and cosmetics. In skin care, depending on the molecular weight it imparts moisturizing,film forming, enhanced skin feel as well as nourishing and anti-aging properties. Usually, the lower molecular weight has higher penetration rate and anti-aging properties whereas the higher molecular weight has higher moisturizing and film forming properties. We recommend blending at least two molecular weight ranges in your formulations for a better performance.Like all other hyaluron variations, it is a water soluble polysaccharide and should be added to the cold water phase or cool down phase of an emulsion.Recommended dosage: 0,1-0,5%This product is HALAL certified
Hyaluron, low molecular weightINCI: SODIUM HYALURONATECAS# 9067-32-7This is low molecular weight variation of sodium hyaluronate. It has a high moisture binding, good penetration and anti-aging properties . The molecular weight range is <1 MDa.Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan) is a natural linear polysaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and D-Glucosamine units. It has countless applications in food supplements, pharmacy and cosmetics. In skin care, depending on the molecular weight it imparts moisturizing,film forming, enhanced skin feel as well as nourishing and anti-aging properties. Usually, the lower molecular weight has higher penetration rate and anti-aging properties whereas the higher molecular weight has higher moisturizing and film forming properties. We recommend blending at least two molecular weight ranges in your formulations for a better performance.Like all other hyaluron variations, it is a water soluble polysaccharide and should be added to the cold water phase or cool down phase of an emulsion.Recommended dosage: 0,1-0,2%This product is HALAL certified
Hyaluron, oligo/miniINCI: HYDROLYZED SODIUM HYALURONATEThis is the lowest molecular weight variation of sodium hyaluronate with the highest penetration and anti-aging properties. It is produced by enzymatic hydrolysis of sodium hyaluronate by hyaluronidase. The molecular weight is <10 K Da.Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan) is a natural linear polysaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and D-Glucosamine units. It has countless applications in food supplements, pharmacy and cosmetics. In skin care, depending on the molecular weight it imparts moisturizing,film forming, enhanced skin feel as well as nourishing and anti-aging properties. Usually, the lower molecular weight has higher penetration rate and anti-aging properties whereas the higher molecular weight has higher moisturizing and film forming properties. We recommend blending at least two molecular weight ranges in your formulations for a better performance.Like all other hyaluron variations, it is a water soluble polysaccharide and should be added to the cold water phase or cool down phase of an emulsion.Recommended dosage: 0,05-0,1%This product is HALAL certified
INCI: Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateCountry of origin: JapanPalm free ingredientThis is a stabilized liquid, lipophilic form of vitamin C with excellent heat and oxidation stability.It is easily missible with oils and ester oils at room temperature and makes a clear and transparent liquid even at high dosage.No need for heating but if necessary, you can even hot process it (avoid overheating and heating for a long period)This ingredient is sensitive against metals and material with catalytic activity. Use chelators and vitamin E to improve its performance and stability. Do not use with clays.This is a synthetic ingredient with about 15% natural origin. It is suitable for vegan formulations.Recommended dosage:0,1-0,2% as an antioxidant (to protect the product)0,1-1,0% as an active ingredient5-20% in high performance serumRead this blog post for more information.
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate; Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Glycerin; Serenoa Serrulata (saw palmetto) Fruit Extract; Juniperus Communis Fruit ExtractNatural active decalact sebum is a specialty blend for treatment of acne prone skin. It is a naturally derived ingredient, COSMOS approved and accepted for application in "natural & organic" formulations.In-vivo studies show that application of Natural active decalact sebum reduces the skin pores, regulates sebum production, reduces skin inflammation and redness and comedones as well as slows down the growth of unwanted bacterial over skin. Even non-greasy skin will love this ingredientNatural active decalact sebum is a lipophilic ingredient and should be applied in the oil phase of the formulation or be blended in the surfactant phase (for cleansing products) or incorporated with a solubilizer (in toners and micellar waters). It should be added to the formulation below 40 degrees Celsius. In emulsions, you need to add it to the hot oil phase just before emulsification so that it is not heated for a long time.Natural active decalact sebum is a high viscosity amber/yellow liquid.Application dosage: 2,0%Make sure the pH of the product is between 4,0-6,5 as you add this ingredient to the formulation and adjust the pH at the end according to the requirements of the preservative system (optimally 4,5-5,5). Over time, the pH might drift but you can enhance the stability and avoid pH change by adding about 0,5% sodium citrate to the formulation
INCI: NiacinamideCAS#: 98-92-0EC#: 202-713-4Niacinamide is a physiologically active form of vitamin B3 which is involved in many biochemical processes.In skin care, it imparts anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, anti-cellulite, anti bacterial properties as well as collagen synthesis enhancing properties. It is a water soluble powder with a good light and heat stability but rather narrow pH-stabilityThis is a cosmetic specialty ingredient with a very low content (<0,2%) of skin irritating nicotinic acid.Application dosage: 0,5-5.0% in the water phaseAlthough niacinamide has a good heat stability we recommend you add this ingredient during the cool down phase (<40 C)Optimum pH of this ingredient is around 6 at a much higher or much lower pH it disintegrates to nicotinic acid which irritates the skin. Make sure the pH of the product is between 5,0-6,5 before you add this ingredient.
Olive SqualaneCAS # 111-01-3EC # 203-825-6Squalane is the hydrogenated form of the squalene which is derived from unsaponifiables of the olive oil. This is an upcycled squalane from the waste of the oil pressing industry.Since squalene is very susceptible to oxidation and has a very short shelf-life, it is hydrogenated to squalane for an improved stability and a prolonged shelf-life.This is a 100% plant based (suitable for vegan formulations) and COSMOS and ECOCERT approved ingredient.Squalene is naturally present in some seeds and grains and fruits. Its main commercial source however was and is the shark liver. Squalene is a precursor of sterol synthesis and is a component of our own sebum and plays as a lubricant, refatting and moisturizing agent.Olive squalane has neutral scent is colourless. It has a very light skin feel. It is added to skin and hair care products to impart emolliency, silky skin feel, reduction of TEWL.Application: in the oil phase between 0,5-20,0%Squalane is a stable hydrocarbon and you can add it to the hot phase
Organic aloe vera powder 200:1INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice PowderCAS-Nr.: 85507-69-3This is a freeze dried powder obtained from the juice (not the whole leaf). The powder is sterilized by heat treatment (no radiation).The juice extract is free from the anthraquinones found in the whole leaf which are of high concern because of their carcinogenicity.Aloin content: 0.1 ppmMalic acid: 38,5%Aloverose (acemannan): 11,4%Glucose: 8,1%Application dosage: 0.1-0.5%The powder is easily soluble in cold water. (It doesn't create any gel without addition of gums or viscosity building polymers).Attention: Aloe powder is very sensitive against humidity. Store it in closed and tight containers (if possible over moisture absorbent or in a desiccator. Even by the lowest degree of humidity it turns to a brown paste. This doesn't happen to the finished product when you've dissolved the powder in water or a hydrosol.We ship this ingredient with a desiccant sachet filled with natural clay. You can discard the sachet with your household garbage (when it is saturated) and replace it with a new sachet or any other suitable absorbent. Our sachets weight 6 gr and they are saturated when they reach a weight of 7,3 gr).
d-Panthenol 75%INCI Name: Panthenol and AquaCAS # 81-13-0 / 16485-10-2Moisturizer, skin and hair conditioner. Is applied in all hair and skin care products, Leave-on, as well as Rinse-of. It is a water soluble ingredient and should be added into the water phase. By applying too much panthenol, the product might become tacky and sticky. Since it is heat sensitive, it is better to add it during the cool down phase.Applied concentration: 0,5-5,0%
7-Dehydrocholesterol also known as provitamin DINCI Name: 7-DehydrocholesterolCAS #:434-16-27-Dehydrocholesterol which is naturally present in skin, is a precursor of vitamin D 3 and cholesterol.Under UV irradiation, Skin’entialTM DC is metabolized to vitamin D 3 in the skin, further converted to its active metabolite (calcitriol) for skin protection by:Improving barrier functionProtecting against UV damages and senescenceStimulating natural antimicrobial peptidesApplication dosage: 0,01-0,1%Application: in the cold oil phaseClick here for a sample formulation on our blog.This product is not suitable for vegan formulations.Storage:This ingredient absorbs moisture and may degrade when not protected from light and humidity.We deliver 7-Dehydrocholesterol together with natural desiccant sachets to protect it from humidity during transport and recommend that you store this ingredient in a well closed container in the fridge. Our sachets are environmental friendly and biodegradable (natural clay) and you can discard them with your usual household trash.
RenouMerINCI: Aqua, Polysiphonia Elongata Extract (Algae Extract),Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid.This is a hydrophilic and preserved (natural cosmetics conform) extract from sustainable resources. The red alga is gathered on Breton coast.Even at low concentrations RenouMer improves collagen synthesis, skin smoothness and complexion and moisture retention.The extract has a very light yellowish colour that doesn't show up in the finished product. The scent is very subtle, rather green and not "fishy".Application dosage: 1,0-2,0%
Prebiulin FOSNaTrue certifiedINCI: Inulin, FructosePrebiulin FOS is a poly sugar derived from chicory roots (Chicorium Intybus). It consists of ca. 90% Inulin and ca. 10% fructose.This is a prebiotic that supports skin's own microbiota and the growth of skin friendly and wanted bacteria and inhibits growth of unwanted and harmful pathogens. By adding a prebiotic to your products, you are not adding a single kind of bacteria to the product/skin (skin's microbiota contains more than 1000 different bacteria), you allow the skin to self-regulate itself based on the user's individual microbiome.Application: Prebiulin FOS is a white, hydrophilic powder. It is easily soluble in water. Add it to the water phase during the cool down (Max. heat tolerance is < 60°C for 8h). It survives a pH range between 4,3-10.0Apply it in all water containing hair, scalp and skin products such as shampoos, shower gels, micellar waters, toners, serums, emulsions and masks.In contrast to probiotics, prebiotics are not deactivated by the preservative system of the formulation. Application dosage: 0,5-5,0%Storage: <25°C and below 60 % RH
INCI: Triethyl CitrateTriethyl citrate TEC eco is an ester of citric acid and accepted as a natural ingredient for cosmetics. It is a polar oil and could be used to disperse powders . Its main application is as an active material for natural deodorants, preservative booster and antioxidant. It is a lipophilic material and preferrably should be added to the oil phase. For water based products such as hydroalcoholic or hydroglyceric sprays and roll-ons it should be pre-dispersed in a solubilizer.It is applicable in all deodorant forms from balms to creams and sprays, in foot care products and in deodorant shower gels.Application dosage: 1-5%Best performance pH: 4.0-5.0